Showing posts with label Dress U. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dress U. Show all posts

The Planning and Research are the Best Bits

Posted by Unknown

It's been a long time since I made a post that wasn't just a translation, hasn't it?  Well, I have been doing some things.


- I did finish hemming the demi-polonaise!  Here it is in its untrimmed and unironed glory:


It has to be over my thesis gown, because this dress form is a little too big.  Even with a shirt balled up under it as a makeshift bum pad, it's not quite staying at the waist.  Well, soon I will order a Uniquely You form and have one that I can actually use.

- I've been working on my 1920s presentation for Dress U (though not so much this month), and buying magazines off eBay to do research.  It's totally necessary that I have a Delineator from 1889 for this project, you see.  Um.  Anyway, I hope to scan them in entirely and host them someday, but I'm not sure when that will be - in the meantime, individual pages and prints will more than likely work their way onto here, because they're too interesting to just stay in hard copy for my eyes only!  Especially the 1834 Godey's, which I am almost too frightened to touch.

- Probably the most disruptive is National Novel Writing Month.  I did it every year when I was in undergrad (although I only won once), but I had to give it up while I was at FIT and writing my thesis, because if I'd thought it was hard making time before, it became completely impossible to even think about it then.  It's looking like I'm going to finish this year, which is good, but it means I don't have a ton of time after work.

- Because of NaNo, there's really no chance I'll get to sewing before the end of the month, but in the meantime I'm trying to make sure that I actually get on sewing in December by picking out patterns and fabrics.  I'm pretty sure I'm going to use this 1918 VPLL skirt pattern and this 1912 waist pattern, altered for a lower, wider waistline.  You can see in these two pages from my 1921 McCall's and a 1920 page I got from eBay (the .jpg, I mean, I didn't buy the page) that the same skirt silhouette was in vogue, with extra width or free-hanging panels on the sides.  Crossover fronts were still worn, and elbow-length sleeves.



I'm looking into fabrics, but I have a lot to choose from and I don't know what I want.  Waist possibilities: hunter green gingham, red-striped blue oxford, blue check with a little woven ladybug, peach/sterling check, and a green-tufted white cotton.  Skirt possibilities: taupe with white stripe, olive and black twill, dark olive oxford suiting, navy cotton, and jade green lawn (either as an overlay or for just the side panels).  I'm leaning toward the peach/sterling check and the navy cotton, what do you think?

The nice thing about 1920s court dress is that you need to have a train and white plumes, but there's not really a set form it needs to take (compared to the robe parĂ©e).  There are court robes de style (1, 2) and there are court dresses that are basically ordinary - but couture - evening dresses with trains (3, 4).  I like this evening dress:

I don't have a pattern to approximate it, but I think I could drape that.  I think.
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What, not a fashion plate?

Posted by Unknown

So, the most exciting thing is that I'm going to be at Dress University again in 2013, but this time I'm going to stay in the hotel and go to events, and I'm also planning to teach - one class on patterning historic clothing, and one on the 1920s.  I'm so keyed up for it that I'm already working on the Powerpoint presentation for the latter; the former is going to take some more thought before I start writing anything, since a lot of what I do I worked out through practice, and I'm not used to describing how it works.
I am looking for a roommate!  If there's anyone else doing the same, please comment so we can get in touch.

Since I'm still at the stage where by the time I've finished making something I can see how Wrong it is and all the things I would need to do to fix it, I don't have many choices for things to wear.  (Seriously, I've made a sacque, three pairs of stays, a ca. 1890 dress, three or four corsets, a gown, a jacket, my thesis project, and a Tudor kirtle - and just ask me how many of those I want to put back on my body.)  And nothing I've ever done has been formal, anyway.  So my plans (which I fully expect to fall through in some way) are:

Saturday evening, Royal Court Dinner: 1920s court dress
Sunday morning, Let Them Eat Crepes: demi-polonaise
Sunday afternoon, Mad Tea Party: maybe a teagown or like a dress for a tea dance?
Sunday evening, Tiaras and Jampagne: court dress again (maybe with train removed)

1920s day dress for whichever day I have the 1920s class, and my thesis dress for the other

The demi-polonaise is my piece for the curtain-along, and it's almost finished - I just need to hem it.  It could use some trim, and I think I'll get some batiste/muslin/gauze when I get whatever other fabric I need.  More on the other outfits I'm planning later!

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Dress University

Posted by Unknown

I had a very good time!  There were a few mishaps with my planned off-campus accommodations, but the classes themselves were great.  I got to meet people I'd only ever met online, see a lot of beautiful clothing, learn about some subjects I hadn't thought much about before, bought some amazing hairpins, and built up a good store of ambition.

But I know what you really want - pictures.  (I freely admit that I'm not sure who most people in these are because I'm terrible with names and faces, so if you see yourself, please tell me!)













On Sunday, I went to a class on Heian-Era Japanese clothes, and because I was in (comparatively) light, short clothing I was asked to model, which was fantastic as I was going the whole weekend in plain-clothes and was a bit lot jealous of everyone else.









Many thanks to the wonderful Costume Diva for taking the pictures of me!
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