Grand Court parure à la Française.
To the duchess of Wurtemburg:
"1789, 21 February. - Furnished for a robe française ten and a half ells of striped and cannelé white velvet ... 283 l 10 s
"Six ells of white Italian taffeta for the petticoat ... 51 -
"The petticoat of crêpe striped with white ribbon, embroidered with chenille and green branch-work, reed bouquet, and a drapery ... 290 -
"The trimming of said gown, the parements with drapery trimmed with chenille embroidery in reed designs, and pleated blonde lace, a ribbon bow striped with poppy-colored chenille, blonde lace with a bow of pearls holding the drapery, the bottom of the parement trimmed the same with a barrière of pearls, the petticoat trimmed at the bottom with another pearl barrière, edged with a pleated ruffle of blonde lace on each side. ... 350 -
"A robe edging of pleated fine blonde lace. ... 18 -
"A stomacher of white satin embroidered with poppy chenille ... 18 -
"Draped ribbon sleeve bows in poppy chenille with matching parfait contentement ... 15 -
"A kerchief in flat stitch with a very beautiful wide blonde lace, fond d'Alençon, in a bouquet, a pleated ruffle of fine tulle forming a ruff, a four-rowed ruche of pleated black tulle at the head ... 120 -
"A front-piece on the bodice of goffered and pleated gauze, trimmed with a fine, pretty blonde lace ... 27 -
"A pair of triple manchettes of a very beautiful blonde with a great height, fond d'Alençon with bouquets ... 300 -
"A paré turban cap embroidered with reeds,* in chenille and striped ribbon, in poppy chenille, a pleated ruffle of beautiful blonde, matching that of the kerchief, scarves with reeds edged with a beautiful blonde ... 96 -
"A pair of lappets of beautiful blonde fond d'Alençon, rich border positioned behind ... 48 -
"A bouffante of white taffeta trimmed with embroidery ... 120 -
"The sewing ... 24 -
"Total ... 1,760 l 10 s"
Dossiers Bertin (Doucet Library)
*The structure of this sentence makes me think that roseau may not simply be "reed" but some sort of style of embroidery, as feuillage is both "foliage" and a type of embellishment. But I cannot find any information on what that style would be - for either, actually.