New Designs for October, Miroir des Modes, Oct. 1907

Posted by muhammad nasrudin



My translation of Lauren of Wearing History's article on blouse patterns from Miroir des Modes, October 1907.

[From left to right:]
In Bourdeaux (red) taffeta with Irish guipure

In light blue louisineand guipure

In black marquisetteand braid


New Designs for October
The success with which certain of our already-published designs have been favored leads us to give them new aspects.  The quantities required are given for each design.

Hats are one of the most interesting subjects to treat on at the beginning of the Autumn.  The designs for tomorrow will be very big (the front especially, very large) and generally flat, often devoid of barrettes.  The high calottes with slender and straight trim positioned on the front will be very much in favor.  Japanese and Chinese braids have not said their last word and the most renowned modistesemploy them in a profusion of puffs, voluminous knots, and borders.  Among the flowers most pursued by the modistes we note the large-petaled peony, whose persistent success permits it to be made to bloom even in full autumn.  Somber shades have been accentuated and are based in sumptuous purples or cerise, the two preferred colors.

A hat which is appropriate for the first cool days of the season and is specially intended for walking in the morning even during the winter is of light beige felt, rather small in the crown, with the passe lightly lowered to follow the contour of the head.  A bronze silk scarf surrounds the calotte and on the left is positioned an enormous knot of silk and very raised brown wings.

1481 – Corsage Blousefor Ladies

This waist is mounted on a lining whose top part is fitted with an inserted yoke.  This can be lengthened to the waist like a plastron or be cut at the top of the bust.  One can make this yoke from lace, or when silk or another fabric is used soutache will make a pretty trimming as shown in our print.  The flat and high manchettes are made in lace and the folded manchettes end them at the elbow in forming the trim for the short sleeves when those are used.  If a straight collar is not preferred one can cut a squared neckline.  The short pleats distribute the fullness in a becoming fashion over the bust and a supple leather belt encircles the waist.  The fabrics which agree the best for making it are batiste, linen, muslin, dimity, and light and supple silks.

Pattern 1481 is sold in 7 sizes, for ladies with chests of 81-112cm [32.4-44.8in].  For an 86cm bust [34.4in] making up the waist takes 2.25m [2.5yds] of 88cm [35.2in] fabric or 1.95m [2.17yds] of 110cm [44in] fabric in one material, or 2.95m [3.28yds] of 52cm [20.8in] silk with 1.40m [1.56yds] of 46cm [18.4in] wide lace.  Price of pattern: 1.25 francs.


 [From left to right:]
In crêpe de Chine with guipure
No. 1504 Waist

No. 1504 in white batiste with insertion and embroidery motifs

No. 1504 in black satinet and guipure on filet net

In satined taffeta with guipure
No. 1412 Waist

1504 – Pleated or gathered Waist for Ladies

This type of blouse has the advantage of lending itself to embroidered decorations with a most charming effect.  The embroidery of the yoke is made on domestic fabric with insertions of Valenciennes lace, together with borders, at the joining of the points made by the insertion for the collar and the high cuffs; on the cuffs, a row of insertion and a row of embroidery is inserted.  One can, instead of making the embroidery itself, buy manufactured medallions in stores which will give as good results.  Another fashion of reproducing this elegant blouse is to make the yoke of a single piece and the edges with a number of points; without embroidering the yoke, one could make it in Cluny lace or in guipure; the two methods are equally graceful.  The bodice must be lined, with the exception of the yoke if it is made of guipure.  The front and the back are trimmed with pintucks, if one prefers gathers one can gather it, the neckline can be décolleté or with a collar.  The sleeves are puffed, short or long, both ending in a cuff or a band of guipure.

Pattern 1504 is sold in 7 sizes, for ladies with chests of 81-112cm [32.4-44.8in], for an 86cm  [34.4in] bust making the bodice requires 2.60m [2.89yds] of 88cm [35.2in] fabric or 1.85m [2.05yds] of 110cm [44in] fabric.  Price of the pattern: 1.25 francs.

1412 – Pleated or gathered Waist for Ladies

Bodice 1412 is sold in 7 sizes, for 76-107cm [30.4-42.8in] busts.  For the medium size, making this blouse takes 3m [3.33yds] of 70cm [28in] fabric, or 1.85m [2.05yds] of 110cm [44in] fabric with 75cm [30in] of 46cm [18.4in] wide lace to cover the collar, the yoke, and the cuffs.  Price of the pattern: 1.25 francs.

WHAT SORT OF FUR will one wear this winter?  This is the question which absorbs everyone.  If the elegant women are impatient to have new and costly furs, those who are sensitive to the cold look to shelter themselves in warm furs.  The reasonable and economical woman will make her winter choice during the summer, for she knows that she could have very beautiful ones at a very reduced price, called the summer price.  The pécan or fisher is a long-haired fur of very ordinary and coarse aspect compared to the sable which seems to be fading out to cede its place to the latter and to fox.  Skunk fur has ceased to please.  It is one of the most recent decrees from our most skilled furriers, who devote all their care to rich furs such as fox.  After having dyed its fur, with the aid of a dontils product sprinkle it and spot it with a very skilled and experienced hand.  This spotted fox which is extremely sought-after will be the fashionable fur.