Pattern Time: 1860s Chemise

Posted by muhammad nasrudin

For my 150th post ( \o/ ), a quick little pattern someone might find useful.

When I was working my way through a box a few weeks ago, I came across a chemise that didn't quite want to lay flat.  I took a closer look at it to figure out why, and noticed that it had a unique construction with the sleeves cut in one with the body and gussets inserted in the neckline.  I did a really quick sketch of the cutting layout and measured the important bits, so that when I got home I could draw it up in proportion on graph paper.

Here are a few photographs for further explanation:

I didn't take very detailed construction notes, or note the length of the neck and arm bands.  The side seams are sewn by machine, and so are the lines of cording in the bands.  The cording runs down the middle of each band, with the free ends folded under to enclose the gathers. The top seams of the sleeves are sewn with a a band of eyelet embroidery.